The wild side of the Outaouais
Impossible to miss the vast Gatineau Park which, on the map of the Outaouais, expands like smoke from a campfire. By combining it with the cycle paths of la Route verte, I was drawn to its many trails, lakes, and stretches of forest that seemed to invite me personally.
This article first appeared in the excellent magazine Vélo Mag, May 2022 edition.
You will also find a video produced for the webseries of la Route verte at the bottom of the article.
In front of the Camp Fortune ski resort (credit Guillaume Milette)
Also attracted by these places, William Lyon Mackenzie King bought a summer residence there in 1903. Then, in order to avoid more logging related to the economic crisis of the 1930s, the politician who became Prime Minister of Canada created the Gatineau Park, in July 1938.
My friend Guillaume and I first climb gently towards the interior of the park via the Gatineau Parkways. The jubilant asphalt road surrounded by tall trees is partly reserved for cyclists and runners (see the schedule on the National Capital Commission website). We stop for the first time at the magnificent Pink Lake lookout, named not because of its color, but in honor of a family who settled here shortly after 1830. The lake owes its color to the fact that its waters do not mix not, depriving the deepest third of oxygen and allowing a sulfur-eating bacterium to live there.
Gatineau Park, seen from the air (credit Guillaume Milette)
Friend Guillaume on the perfect asphalt in Gatineau Park
Jacob Saumur-Gouin, co-owner of Les Nomades du Parc in Chelsea
Further on, in the village of Chelsea, we picnicked on the terrace of Park Nomads with co-owners Vincent Bergeron and Jacob Saumur-Gouin. The two twenty-somethings, who grew up on the tracks of the park, confirm that my research in Google Maps in Street View mode did not deceive me: it is possible to engage with our gravel bikes and our panniers in a series of mountain bike trails. “You're going to be super comfortable… over 90% of the course! Vincent assures us.
Sportier section
The famous remaining 10% is just before the Carbide Willson Ruins, a little off Trail 36, which runs along Meech Lake. The dirt and rock dust road becomes steeper, throwing us some challenges in the form of bigger rocks that put a childish smile on our face.
The ruins overlooking the Meech Creek waterfall are the former facilities of a pioneer of the electrochemical industry in North America, Thomas Leopold “Carbide” Willson. This carbide, or carbide, was once the best solution for lighting mines.
The Carbide Wilson Ruins overlook the waterfall of Meech Creek.
Pascal Samson, amateur speleologist, met at the Lusk cave. (credit Guillaume Milette)
Sunset over Lac Philippe (credit Guillaume Milette)
An ancestral house
Apart from the rare times when we roll over larger stones that force us to set foot on the ground, trail 36 takes us quite easily to an ancestral house. This one, accessible only by Meech Lake, seems lost in a small dead-end clearing. By chance, its owners – who only live there a few weeks a year – are outside and invite us there.
With Lauralyn Johnston and her husband, in front of the ancestral house in the heart of the Park
Lauralyn Johnston tells me that the farmhouse was built between 1790 and 1810 in the middle of a forest to be cleared. It was his great-grandfather who handed over the residence without electricity to the government when Gatineau Park was created, while reserving the right to continue to live there by renting it out to his family.
The raccoon attack
The afternoon is already advanced, but Guillaume and I still want to make a round trip to contemplate the impressive Lusk cavern, formed by the pressure of melting glaciers 12 years ago and in which we can walk about 500 m.
Then, just before dark, we finally set up our tents at the Lac Philippe campground. Posters in the restrooms encourage campers to put food in the trunk of their car to avoid visiting raccoons. With no such hiding place, and too tired to find another, we were awakened in the middle of the night by a dozen of these masked thieves, climbing on our bikes in search of our squares of Rice Krispies bought in Chelsea. One of them has even managed to open my frame bag with its long claws and doesn't even move away when I lecture it in the light of my headlamp!
The flood
The next morning, eyes a little puffy from these nocturnal fights, we leave the park by the north. At the intersection of Route 366 near Saint-François-de-Masham, we turn left towards Lac-des-Loups, a dozen kilometers of shoulder further. At the eponymous lake, large drops begin to fall on us. We have no choice but to take a poutine break at the village snack bar. After climbing the four steps of the local convenience store, we find with surprise that we have gone back in time, admiring the selection of VHS tapes for rent.
Guillaume rides on the garnotte on Ragged Chute Road in Bristol.
As the shower only got worse, we decided to brave it by taking the very badly named Lionel-Beausoleil road, which changed its name twice to become the much more appropriate Ragged Chute road. The asphalt gave way to a sandy surface whose particles quickly eat our brake pads. So quickly that I only realize in the middle of a steep descent that my brake levers are now useless. Inspired by Fred Caillou, I slow down by drawing long trails with the heels of my clip-on shoes.
Rescued on the farm
I had already scheduled an interview with Laird and Gayle Graham at their alpaca farm. Seeing us arriving dripping and covered in dirt, the retired couple enhanced their invitation, offering us a shower, then dinner and eventually a bed!
Fifteen years ago, anticipating their retirement, the Grahams bought some alpacas. They now own about XNUMX of them, in addition to several other animals such as chickens and goats. “Alpacas each have their own personality,” says Gayle. They are also curious and very calming. »
Willow Lane Farm in Bristol is an alpaca paradise. (credit Guillaume Milette)
Laird Graham, our saviour, and his dog Ben (credit Guillaume Milette)
The animals are shorn once a year, but for most of the rest of the year the couple must sort the woolly fibers by sieve according to length and quality – by far the longest job.
Before saying goodbye to our saviors, I stuff my bags a little more with soles and socks, not to mention the honey from their bees.
Down the river
We go through the PPJ Cyclopark, located almost behind the farm, before taking the long road 148 which follows the Ottawa River to direct us to the charming area of Aylmer. The largest river in Quebec, named after the French name of the Outaouais Aboriginal nation, traces a good part of the border with Ontario.
From Aylmer to the Canadian Museum of History, we drive gently not far from the water, surrounded by the trees bordering the Voyageurs trail bike path.
This three-day itinerary will have been one of my most memorable on the Route Verte. The diversity of roads and landscapes has a lot to do with it. Above all, the warm welcome and the great generosity of the people have once again shown me that traveling by bike – whether in good or bad weather! – is the best way to fill your bags and your memory with wonderful memories.
The Ottawa River and Route 148, around Luskville (credit Guillaume Milette)
Selfie on the Ottawa River in Aylmer (credit Guillaume Milette)
Landmarks
Itinerary: 157 km in three days. See on Google Maps.
Elevation: 920m
Bike paths taken:
MY GOOD ADDRESSES
- In addition to its campsites and 183 km of summer trails, the Gatineau Park can count on several attractions that are worth the detour. You will find splendid gardens at the Mackenzie-King estate and discover a page of Canadian scientific history in the Carbide Willson ruins, in addition to learning about caving in the Lusk cavern.
- Park Nomads, at 10 Scott Road, Chelsea, offers guided experiences in Gatineau Park as well as mountain bike and paddle board rentals.
- A visit to the farm Willow Lane Alpacas, on route 148, in Bristol, is fascinating and teaches us a little more about these adorable beasts.
- Fabie's Garden, on Route 148, in Quyon, grows vegetables in permaculture, with the help of Canadian horses. The products are sold at the on-site kiosk or by distributing baskets.
The good world of la Route verte is a 10-episode web series, which I produced for Vélo Québec. All episodes are available for free here.
Impossible to miss the vast Gatineau Park which, on the map of the Outaouais, expands like smoke from a campfire. By combining it with the cycle paths of la Route verte, I was drawn to its many trails, lakes, and stretches of forest that seemed to invite me personally.