Nicosia: the divided capital of Cyprus
Nicosia is, a bit like Berlin in the past, cut in two by a long wall that crosses the entire Mediterranean island. While the Cypriot government claims all of the territory, the northeastern third of the country has been under the control of the self-proclaimed Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus since 1974.
This article first appeared in the excellent magazine Vélo Mag, June 2022 edition.
The Faneroumeni church in the Greek part of the capital.
The flag of the Republic of Cyprus, with the entire outline of the island.
The strategic position of the magnificent island has been coveted by all since ancient times. From the Egyptians to the Persians, from the Romans to the French, from the Venetians to the Ottomans, everyone wanted to enjoy a Smoothie on the stunning Cypriot beaches. By the time the island state gained independence from the British in 1960, its population overwhelmingly spoke Greek.
But a coup d'etat fomented by the government of Greece to annex Cyprus gives a reason for Turkey to come and protect the population of Turkish culture on the island, nearly 20% of the inhabitants. A new country is proclaimed in the north, but is still recognized today only by Turkey.
Whiter buildings stand out north of the "green line". You can also see the flag of the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus on the mountains in the distance.
This territory is separated from the rest of Cyprus not by a border, but the green line, controlled by the blue helmets of the United Nations. This false true border 180 km is a few kilometers wide in the countryside but barely a few meters in the heart of the capital. Refugees live in abandoned buildings located directly on the border.
The green line that separates the entire country is controlled by the blue helmets of the United Nations.
A clear message… since 1974.
180 km long, the green line that cuts the country is a few kilometers wide in the countryside, and barely a few meters in Nicosia. Refugees from Africa and the Middle East live in these abandoned buildings.
Two self-service bicycles
In the Greek-speaking part of the capital, the self-service bicycles are those of Nextbike, a German company. To the north, in the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus, Velespeed uses frames from PBSC, the company – originally from Quebec and acquired by the American carpooling firm Lyft in April 2022 – creator of the Montreal Bixi, established in around forty cities.
Nextbike bikes, in the southern part of the capital.
The Velespeed in the Turkish part, to the north.
As a tourist, you cross the green line quite easily, with your passport in hand, without receiving a stamp.
Does that mean we could do it with one of the bikes? “Yes, in theory, I was told at Velespeed. But without a station in the south, you will still have to return your bike to the north. »
The photogenic Meres Bookshop, on the Greek-speaking side.
The Rüstem Kitabevi bookstore, to the north among the Turks.
Nicosia is, a bit like Berlin in the past, cut in two by a long wall that crosses the entire Mediterranean island. While the Cypriot government claims all of the territory, the northeastern third of the country has been under the control of the self-proclaimed Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus since 1974.