Local colors in Saguenay
The Saguenay Fjord drew my bike to it and opened its arms to me on its banks, welcoming me for three days in the heart of its moving landscapes.
This article first appeared in the excellent magazine Vélo Mag, June 2022 edition.
You will also find a video produced for the webseries of la Route verte at the bottom of the article.
132 km on both sides of the fjord.
Several thousand cycle tourists pass through Saguenay every year… to get to the popular Véloroute des Bleuets. While this flat circuit that encircles Lac Saint-Jean charms young families, Saguenay and its many hills attract a generally sporty clientele, eager for climbs and descents.
The athlete Pierre Lavoie, met on this route called Véloroute du Fjord du Saguenay, is one of those who campaigned for the development of la Route verte in the region. “I used to see cyclists leaving to train in France, Spain and Italy. Now, we can do it right here on both sides of the fjord!” says this convinced ambassador. While the complete loop that crosses the Saguenay River and then follows its two banks stretches over 330 km and climbs a few thousand meters, I have chosen a moderate route that will also allow me to enjoy the maritime side of the Saguenay Fjord.
The modernized port area of Chicoutimi (credit Guillaume Milette)
From Saguenay to Saint-Fulgence
Accompanied by my friend Guillaume, I begin this loop at the port area that is the Old Port of Chicoutimi. The wooden slats of the large quay creak under our wheels while the riverside wind blows gently in our ears. We quickly take the Sainte-Anne bridge, inaugurated in 1933 and converted fifty years ago into a pedestrian crossing.
We join Route 172 and go down the Saguenay for a dozen kilometers, to the municipality of Saint-Fulgence. There, a path on stilts advances into the middle of the sandbanks, where birds of an impressive variety of species gather.
The wind goes up the Saguenay while we go down it (credit Guillaume Milette)
Kim Limoges is co-owner (with her sister) of the Auberge Aventure Rose des Vents in Sainte-Rose-du-Nord.
Sainte-Rose-du-Nord, the “pearl of the fjord” (credit Guillaume Milette)
Hill climbs and river descents
We spend part of the next 30 km riding on our own. These climbs are happily rewarded with delightful descents. Promote your stability by distributing the weight well in your panniers beforehand, especially at the front, then hang on to your handlebars!
At the end of a right turn followed by another magnificent descent, we arrive at Sainte-Rose-du-Nord. The self-proclaimed “pearl of the fjord” is set in the valley, its feet in the water. We spend the night there and then board one of the fjord’s maritime shuttles at 10 a.m. the next day. We skirt the Saguenay Fjord National Park, which stretches about 100 km to the south. A stone’s throw from the boat, the rock of some 350 m high cliffs plunges vertically into the river. Along the way, a guide tells us legends and anecdotes, including the story of the statue of Notre-Dame-du-Saguenay; the three-ton piece had to be broken into fourteen pieces before being hoisted to the top of Cap Trinité in 1881. The operation lasted eight days!
The port of Anse-Saint-Jean (credit Guillaume Milette)
A REGIONAL FLAG: Hoisted for the first time in 1938 and today recognized as an element of Quebec cultural heritage, the flag of Saguenay-Lac-Saint-jean represents the forest, agriculture, industry and the sacrifices of its inhabitants .
Salmon fishing at Anse-Saint-Jean
The ferry docks at the L'Anse-Saint-Jean wharf in time for lunch. The village and its region are so splendid, it would be silly not to extend our stay. We first notice the disparate styles of crosses in the cemetery, marking the eras of the different blacksmiths. Then, helped by electric bikes and Michel, a skilled local fisherman, we set off on the salmon trail up the Saint-Jean River. "It's one of the exceptional activities here," our guide rightly says. At the same time, he spreads his hands wide to give us a glimpse of his biggest catch, which he quickly puts back in the water, like all the others. Finally, just a stone's throw from the village, we happily spot a crowd of salmon, almost motionless and invisible in the middle of the current.
Looking for salmon in the Saint-Jean River with Michel Ouellet, distinguished fisherman
Leaving the cove the next day, Guillaume and I reach Route 170 where we are quickly approached by a road worker who encourages us to rest before the next hill. "There's a hell of a lot coming!" he prophesies. The sacred climb spoils us for 5 km before being followed by a masterful descent.
The eponymous cove of Anse-Saint-Jean, a classic at the end of the day
Route 170, leaving Anse-Sainte-Jean (credit Guillaume Milette)
Return to Saguenay
Pierre Lavoie and me, on the edge of the Saguenay fjord
We pass Otis Lake and then find the Saguenay River just before the borough of La Baie. That's where we meet Pierre Lavoie, on his way to his hometown of L'Anse-Saint-Jean. An electric bike is installed behind his colorful truck. I'm surprised by this assisted motor, but the big Pierre quickly guides me. "The bike only gives me power below 32 km/h," he specifies with his characteristic energy. So only on a very long hill!" I nod my helmet in approval, without daring to reveal my own average speeds on the bike...
The proliferation of electric bikes in recent years has the distinct advantage of giving a helping hand to the many cyclists who love scenery. "You climb the hills one pedal stroke at a time," continues Pierre Lavoie, encouragingly. "And at the top, you have a view!" According to the instigator of the Grand Défi, the thirteen villages around the fjord are well distributed, each with its attractions. "You can easily take your time and only visit one or two per day," he suggests enthusiastically.
As I return to the city of Saguenay, I tell myself that if each of the Saguenay villages has its own distinctive colour, this is also the case for the different aspects of the region's grandiose landscape: in just a few days, we have been enveloped in the deep green of the forests, the bright blue of the water and the yellow hues of the walls of the majestic fjord. And above all, it is the proud, welcoming and generous people here who give Saguenay its true colour.
Landmarks
Duration: 132 km in three or four days.
First day : From Saguenay to Sainte-Rose-du-Nord (46 km). Google Maps.
Second day : Boat crossing and day in L’Anse-Saint-Jean
Third day: From L'Anse-Saint-Jean to Saguenay (86 km). Google Maps.
Elevation: 920 m
ACTIVITIES
- Not only Fjord maritime shuttles will greatly reduce the number of kilometers you have to pedal, but above all, they will help you discover the Saguenay River from a completely different, absolutely sublime perspective. Stories included!
- In Rivière-Éternité, on Route 170, it is possible to take a pleasant detour via Éternité Bay and the Sépaq campsite of the same name. “One of the most beautiful views in Canada! » according to Pierre Lavoie.
- If you are thirsty for legends before or after your bike, Joseph Simard, Fjord and world adventure tours, offers bus tours that perfectly complement a maritime trip.
- At Fjord Bike, in L'Anse-Saint-Jean, rent an electric bike from the cheerful Graham Park and set off to explore, with your hair in the wind, the many trails surrounding the village.
- To find out more about all the activities of the Grand Défi Pierre Lavoie.
WHERE TO EAT
- Snack bar with generous portions, an admirable view of the Saguenay and affable employees, the restaurant Les 3G, located at 100, rue du Quai, in Sainte-Rose-du-Nord, charms with its simplicity and atmosphere.
- The charming village of L'Anse-Saint-Jean certainly has no shortage of good restaurants and bistros. Among these, I especially enjoyed my visits to the Café du quai and the Chasse-Pinte brasserie, located respectively at 358A and 319 rue Saint-Jean-Baptiste.
OR SLEEP
- Sisters Kim and Maude Limoges welcome you to Auberge Aventure Rose-des-Vents, located at 136, rue du Quai, in Sainte-Rose-du-Nord. Whether you stay in a room or a yurt, enjoy sea kayaking and ice fishing activities, depending on the season.
- Facing the L’Anse-Saint-Jean quay, the Holiday chalets on the fjord, grouped around 2, rue de l'Hermine, bureau 24, are perfect for stopping for one or more nights.
- Camping de l'Anse, at 325, rue Saint-Jean-Baptiste, in L'Anse-Saint-Jean, is another place to pitch your tent near the river.
The good world of la Route verte is a 10-episode web series, which I produced for Vélo Québec. All episodes are available for free here.
The Saguenay Fjord drew my bike to it and opened its arms to me on its banks, welcoming me for three days in the heart of its moving landscapes.